Cementerio central. Una mirada a lo sacro y a lo profano

Por: Liliana Andrea Daza Marroquin || ladazam@unal.edu.co
Fotografía de: Leslie Guzman Costes

Una tarde, hablando con un amigo cercano, surgió el tema. Misael me comentó que había trabajado en un cementerio ubicado en la avenida Matatigres (hacia el sur de la ciudad). Lo que me comentó luego de hacerle algunas preguntas me dio la idea para el título de este escrito: “las cosas que se ven yo no las había visto antes”.

Al principio, solo recordé las palabras de mi tía Esperanza, a quien un día escuché hablar sobre una visita que hizo junto a mi abuela Beatriz al cementerio central. Ellas fueron a visitar la tumba de mi bisabuela Rafaela. Cuando estaban adentro, de repente, un vigilante las detuvo y les revisó las carteras en busca de algo más que un arma. Ellas me contaron que el celador les dijo que muchas brujas van a hacer sus cosas en el cementerio y, como ellas dieron muchas vueltas (ya que no recordaban donde estaba mi bisabuela), él había sospechado de ellas.

Volviendo a Misael, recuerdo que, en medio de las muchas cosas que me contó sobre las almas del purgatorio y los rituales de brujería, me dijo algo que mi tía y mi abuela me habían dicho también: “las brujas no existen pero que las hay las hay”. Quizá sea pura superstición, quizá sea un secreto a gritos.

En cierta visita que hice al cementerio central, recuerdo ver un hombre haciendo un pago al famoso hombre del billete de veinte mil por un favor recibido. Según los visitantes, el difunto Garavito les concede dinero si van y frotan la tumba con un billete. También, dicen que aquellos a los que les hace el milagro vuelven y le prenden velas amarradas que parecen los restos rituales de una secta desconocida. Estos los distribuyen en la entrada del cementerio, lo curioso es que en ese lugar hay también un lugar destinado para hacer el ritual a las benditas almas del purgatorio, dado el caso de que el billete de veinte mil no funcione.

Cerca de allí está el lugar donde algunos hacen sus respectivos pagos a las almas. Por allí pasan a diario varios creyentes realizando una novena y cierto ritual en la entrada principal del cementerio. Una imagen desconcertante, pues da un giro irreal en el público y cotidiano escenario sobre el cual sonríe el brillo de la oz que sostiene un ángel de la muerte sin rostro.

Quizá sea pura superstición, quizá sea un secreto a gritos.

Ciertas tumbas tienen un desarrollo ritual interesante. Por ejemplo la de Leo Kopp, el alemán que fundó Bavaria. Cerca de ella se realiza la misa el día lunes y la visitan quienes le van a pedir favores al oído y quienes le dejan flores por algún favor recibido. Quizá, esta tumba es más visitada que la de los mártires o la de los presidentes, lo cual es muy diciente sobre nuestro sentido de partencia con el país y con la cerveza.

Las tumbas del señor caído de Monserrate y Luis Carlos Galán Sarmiento hacen parte de ciertos ritos que no se dejan descifrar fácilmente; estos sirven de referencia para ilustrar cierta visión de una visita cualquiera a este lugar tan sencillo y misterioso. Por una parte, hay cierta sacralidad en los rituales que realizan algunos religiosos el día de las almas. Este es similar al que realizan algunas personas en las tumbas. Cabe aclarar que quienes realizan esta práctica suelen acercarse en grupos, por familia o amigos, se ubican alrededor de las tumbas y fuman marihuana mientras realizan el ritual. Por otra, hay mausoleos donde se pueden ver las flores y las lápidas en buen estado, solo algunas muestran deterioro y, al parecer, esconden algo más que lo evidente. Por razones de seguridad y recomendación de mi amigo Misael, me abstuve de revisar o sacar fotos, teniendo en cuenta que el lunes es el predilecto para realizar ritos y los celadores están más atentos este día.

Por último, quisiera algún día agregar fotos de un pasaje nauseabundo, en el que se cree que se realizan rituales para adorar al oscuro. Pero, todo esto hace parte de las cosas que oculta la luz o ausencia de oscuridad, y como todos sabemos, este lugar, como casi todo cementerio, tiene una gran cantidad de prácticas, tan distintas unas de otras, tan variadas como la escala de colores que van desde el negro más oscuro al blanco más brillante.

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