Intermitencia urbana

Por: Gustavo Moreno || gmoreno.5@hotmail.com
Ilustración de: Rocio Mikulic

El camino es angosto, la densidad se impone en el espacio. El ritmo de los transeúntes se torna más lento. El pasaje es acompañado por los exaltados anuncios de los vendedores ambulantes de la zona, el susurro de algún proxeneta lujurioso y el humo de los buses que ayudan a llenar de personas el centro de la ciudad. El gris del ambiente es interrumpido por la obra de Omar Rayo que reposa sobre el asfalto. Este es el resultado de una apuesta distrital que busca revitalizar el centro de la ciudad. ¿El lugar está (o estuvo) muerto?, ¿el sitio revivió?, ¿resucitó? Yo solo veo un zombi maltrecho. Un espectro que condensa vida y muerte. Es la calle Jiménez con Carrera décima. La mariposa de Negret se posa a la vista. La potencia abstracta de la escultura se consolida en los rayones amorfos que la visten. Desde allí, San Victorino parece un paisaje mal coloreado. Es medio día. El sol inclemente ilumina la oscuridad del sitio. Se pueden ver los rastros de la calle en los rostros desesperanzados de los indigentes que deambulan sin destino por la urbe. Este lugar es la obertura a mi paseo por la Avenida Jiménez, lugar que antaño fue un río nombrado por los Muiscas como Bicacha, al que los españoles denominaron San Francisco y al que hoy llamamos La Jiménez. Río de asfalto que se mueve por incontables matices, donde los límites de la luz y la oscuridad son casi difusos, indistinguibles.

Con paso apresurado llego a la Jiménez con Caracas. Una mirada de norte a sur me muestra dos largos caminos casi infinitos, como el trancón que a menudo se vive allí. Nada se mueve. Buses atestados de almas urbanas, esas que están acostumbradas a verse sin mirarse. Luz verde. Avanzo mi marcha. Después de unos minutos caminando, aparece la iglesia de San Francisco. El coloso sagrado se alza al costado norte de la carrera Séptima con Av. Jiménez, junto a la iglesia de la tercera y La Veracruz completa la triada que se posa en la zona, baluarte de la ocupación española. Estas aparecieron en la época colonial para iluminar a los indígenas, para limpiar su naturaleza impía, su alma perecedera y sus hábitos mundanos. Pareciera que aquí la sacralidad de la luz se basa en la oscuridad material de los templos. Los destellos de luz caen sobre los creyentes que yacen arrodillados con los ojos cerrados. En la luz está la oscuridad.

Los rieles del tranvía que subyacen al asfalto en este punto del recorrido, recuerdan la ciudad de mitad de siglo. En aquel tiempo, los límites de la capital eran mucho menos extensos y el medio de transporte tradicional era ese mismo, el tranvía. Era la tarde del 9 de abril de 1948. Un idolatrado y carismático caudillo liberal salió a almorzar y un sicario llamado Juan Roa Sierra le disparó. Gaitán murió. Este hecho desembocó una época nublada por saqueos, destrucción e indignación, que los historiadores hoy denominan el Bogotazo. Ese día se destruyó el tranvía. Este evento histórico inauguró una seguidilla de actos cruentos y violentos alentados por fanatismos partidistas a lo largo de todo el país. Al caminar unas cuantas cuadras hacia el sur, se pueden encontrar múltiples placas en honor al caído Jorge Eliecer Gaitán. La carrera Séptima con avenida Jiménez, es un lugar de la memoria colectiva bogotana.

Una mirada de norte a sur me muestra dos largos caminos casi infinitos, como el trancón que a menudo se vive allí. Nada se mueve.

Unas calles al oriente se empiezan a divisar el Eje Ambiental. La obra del arquitecto colombiano Rogelio Salmona se construyó sobre el curso que recorría el río San Francisco. Entre la carrera tercera y quinta se puede ver un largo espejo de agua que intenta rescatar al Bicacha del olvido. Como pasa con la gran mayoría de los monumentos de la ciudad, no hay una apropiación simbólica ni material. ¿Qué quiero decir? Simple: pocos recuerdan el significado del monumento y muchos se encargan de deteriorar su estructura física. La tentativa estatal apunta a crear un pasado común, iluminar un fragmento de la historia bogotana a partir de la exaltación de ciertos símbolos. No funciona. Aquel destello artificial es eclipsado por el olvido y el descuido de los monumentos. Lo que quedan son un montón de piedras sin nombre ni autor, con rostros desfallecientes y tristes. Para la fecha la mitad de los monumentos de la ciudad se encuentran rayados con marcadores, aerosoles y navajas. Se oscurece un pasado que, si no es digno de idolatrar, vale la pena conocer y criticar.

Así es la Jiménez, un pasillo urbano decorado por la intermitencia, por el jugueteo incesante de pares de opuestos, un vaivén perpetuo entre lo sagrado y lo profano, entre lo limpio y lo sucio, entre la luz y la oscuridad.

Comments

176 thoughts on “Intermitencia urbana

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